Topographic enhancement of long waves generated by an idealized moving pressure system


  • Alejandro Orfila Marine Technologies and Operational Oceanography Department, IMEDEA (CSIC-UIB)
  • Salvador Balle Marine Technologies and Operational Oceanography Department, IMEDEA (CSIC-UIB) - Institut de Ciències del Mar (ICM-CSIC)
  • Gonzalo Simarro Institut de Ciències del Mar (ICM-CSIC), Marine Geology Department



meteotsunami, long wave, rissaga


We studied the influence of the topography on the oceanic response to a traveling atmospheric disturbance and the relevance of its propagation direction on the generation of seiche oscillations. A primitive equation ocean model was used to analyze the response of two harbors located in insular systems to a pressure disturbance. The spectral component at the frequency of fundamental harbor resonance was determined from these data for different propagation directions of the incoming atmospheric disturbance. A conceptual model of interferences of resonantly generated ocean waves was introduced in order to explain energy maxima obtained by the numerical model close to the most affected areas.


Download data is not yet available.


Belusic, D. and N.S. Mahovic. - 2009. Detecting and following atmospheric disturbances with a potential to generate meteotsunamis in the Adriatic. Phys. Chem. Earth., 17-18: 918-927.

Candela, J., S. Mazzola, C. Sammari, R. Limeburner, C.J. Lozano, B. Patti, and A. Bonnano. - 1999. The "Mad Sea" phenomenon in the Strait of Sicily. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 29: 2210-2231.<2210:TMSPIT>2.0.CO;2

Djumagaliev, V.A. and A.B. Rabinovich. - 1993. Long wave investigation at the shelf and in the bays of the south kuril Islands. J. Korean Soc. Coastal Ocean Eng., 5: 318-328.

Garcies, M., D. Gomis and S. Monserrat. - 1996. Pressure-forced seiches of large amplitude in inlets of the Balearic Islands. Part II: Observational study. J. Geophys. Res., 101(C3): 6453-6467.

Honda, K., T. Terada, Y. Yoshida and D. Isitani. - 1908. An investigation on the secondary ondulations of oceanic tides. J. College Sci. Imp., Univ. Tokio.

Kovalev, P. D., A. B. Rabinovich and G.V. Shevchenko. - 1991. Investigation of long waves in the tsunami frequency band on the southwestern shelf of Kamchatka. Nat. Haz., 4(2-3): 141-159.

Liu, P.L.-F., S. Monserrat and M. Marcos. - 2002. Analytical simulation of edge waves observed around the Balearic Islands. Geophys. Res. Let., 29, 17: 1847.

Marcos, M., S. Monserrat, R. Medina and C. Vidal. - 2003. Influence of the atmospheric wave velocity in the coastal amplification of meteotsunamis. In A. C. Yalciner, E.N. Pelinovsky, C.E. Synolakis and E. Okal (eds.), Submarine Landslides and Tsunamis, pp. 247-253. Kluwer Acad. Publ.

Marcos, M., S. Monserrat, R. Medina, A. Orfila and M. Olabarrieta. - 2009. External forcing of meteorological tsunamis at the coast of the Balearic Islands. Phys. Chem. Earth., 17-18: 938-947.

Marcos, M., P.L.-F. Liu and S. Monserrat. - 2004. Nonlinear resonant coupling between two adjacent bay. J. Geophys. Res., 109 (C05008).

Mei, C.C. - 1989. The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves. World Scientific. Singapore.

Mercer, D., J. Sheng, R. J. Greatbatch and J. Bobanovic. - 2002. Barotropic waves generated by storms moving rapidly over shallow water. J. Geophys. Res., 107(C10).

Monserrat, S. and A.J. Thorpe. - 1992. Gravity wave observations using an array of microbarographs in the Balearic Islands. Q. J. R. Meteorol. Soc., 118: 259-282.

Monserrat, S., A.B. Rabinovich and B. Casas. - 1998. On the reconstruction of the transfer function for atmospherically generated seiches. Geophys. Res. Let., 12: 2197-2200.

Nielsen, P., S. de Brye, D.P. Callaghan and P.A. Guard. - 2008. Transient dynamics of storm surges and other forced long waves. Coast. Eng. 55(6): 499-505.

Papadopoulos, G.A., E. Polymenakos, M. Tsimplis and G. Vlachakis.- 1992. An exceptional seawave observed in the Aegean: A geological or meteorological event? XVII EGS General Assembly, Edinburgh, C109.

Proudman, J. - 1929. The effects on the sea of changes in atmospheric pressure. Geophysical supplement to Mon. Not. R. Astron. Soc. 2,(4): 197-209

Rabinovich, A.B. and S. Monserrat. - 1996. Meteorological tsunamis near the Balearic and Kuril Islands: descriptive and statistical analysis. Nat. Haz. 13: 55-90.

Rabinovich, A.B. and S. Monserrat. - 1998. Generation of meteorological tsunamis (large amplitude seiches) near the Balearic and Kuril islands. Nat. Haz. 18: 27-55.

Rabinovich, A.B., I. Vilibic and S. Tinti. - 2009. Meteorological Tsunamis: Atmospherically Induced Destructive Ocean Waves in the Tsunami Frequency Band. Phys. Chem. Earth., 34, 17-18: 891-1032.

Sepic, J., I. Vilibic and D. Belusic. - 2009. The source of the 2007 meteotsunami (Adriatic Sea). J. Geophy. Res., 114, C03016.

Shillington, F.A. - 1984. Long period edge waves off Southern Africa. Cont. Shelf Res., 3: 343-357.

Song, Y. and D.B. Haidvogel. - 1994. A semi-implicit ocean circulation model using a generalized topography-following coordinate system. J. Comp. Phys., 115(1): 228-244.

Vilibic, I., S. Monserrat, A. B. Rabinovich and H. Mihanovic. - 2008. Numerical modelling of the destructive meteotsunami of 15 June, 2006 on the coast of the Balearic Islands. Pure Appl. Geophys., 165: 2169-2195.

Vilibic, I., J. Sepic, J. Ranguelov, N. Strelec-Mahovic and S. Tinti. - 2010. Possible atmospheric origin of the 7 May 2007 western Black Sea shelf tsunami event. J. Geophys. Res., 115, C07006.

Vennell, R.-2010. Resonance and trapping of topographic transient ocean waves generated by a moving atmospheric disturbance. J. Fluid Mechanics, 650: 427-442.




How to Cite

Orfila A, Balle S, Simarro G. Topographic enhancement of long waves generated by an idealized moving pressure system. scimar [Internet]. 2011Sep.30 [cited 2022Aug.12];75(3):595-603. Available from:




Most read articles by the same author(s)