Scientia Marina, Vol 65, No 4 (2001)

Evolution of longshore beach contour lines determined by E.O.F. method


https://doi.org/10.3989/scimar.2001.65n4393

Juan J. Muñoz-Pérez
Department of Applied Physics, University of Cadiz, CASEM, Spain

Raúl Medina
Ocean & Coastal Research Group. Departamento de Ciencias y Tecnicas del Agua y del Medio Ambiente, Universidad de Cantabria, Spain

Begoña Tejedor
Department of Applied Physics, University of Cadiz, CASEM, Spain

Abstract


Detailed topo-bathymetric levellings were performed biannually for four years at Victoria Beach (Cadiz, Spain) after a beach renourishment carried out in Spring 1991. The subsequent time series were analysed using the Empirical Orthogonal Functions (EOF) method. The evolution of some characteristic longshore contour lines, such as the Highest High Water Level and the Lowest Low Water Level, is studied. The mean coastal line is related to the first spatial EOF mode. Furthermore, an objective criterion for distinguishing between a generalised recession and cyclic accretion-erosion processes due to seasonal sea-swell changes is described, and a uniformly clockwise turn of the shoreline to minimise longshore transport is identified.

Keywords


beach changes; longshore variations; Victoria Beach; EOF; Cadiz

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