Scientia Marina, Vol 75, No 3 (2011)

Topographic enhancement of long waves generated by an idealized moving pressure system

Alejandro Orfila
Marine Technologies and Operational Oceanography Department, IMEDEA (CSIC-UIB) , Spain

Salvador Balle
Marine Technologies and Operational Oceanography Department, IMEDEA (CSIC-UIB) - Institut de Ciències del Mar (ICM-CSIC) , Spain

Gonzalo Simarro
Institut de Ciències del Mar (ICM-CSIC), Marine Geology Department , Spain


We studied the influence of the topography on the oceanic response to a traveling atmospheric disturbance and the relevance of its propagation direction on the generation of seiche oscillations. A primitive equation ocean model was used to analyze the response of two harbors located in insular systems to a pressure disturbance. The spectral component at the frequency of fundamental harbor resonance was determined from these data for different propagation directions of the incoming atmospheric disturbance. A conceptual model of interferences of resonantly generated ocean waves was introduced in order to explain energy maxima obtained by the numerical model close to the most affected areas.


meteotsunami; long wave; rissaga

Full Text:



Belusic, D. and N.S. Mahovic. - 2009. Detecting and following atmospheric disturbances with a potential to generate meteotsunamis in the Adriatic. Phys. Chem. Earth., 17-18: 918-927.

Candela, J., S. Mazzola, C. Sammari, R. Limeburner, C.J. Lozano, B. Patti, and A. Bonnano. - 1999. The "Mad Sea" phenomenon in the Strait of Sicily. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 29: 2210-2231.<2210:TMSPIT>2.0.CO;2

Djumagaliev, V.A. and A.B. Rabinovich. - 1993. Long wave investigation at the shelf and in the bays of the south kuril Islands. J. Korean Soc. Coastal Ocean Eng., 5: 318-328.

Garcies, M., D. Gomis and S. Monserrat. - 1996. Pressure-forced seiches of large amplitude in inlets of the Balearic Islands. Part II: Observational study. J. Geophys. Res., 101(C3): 6453-6467.

Honda, K., T. Terada, Y. Yoshida and D. Isitani. - 1908. An investigation on the secondary ondulations of oceanic tides. J. College Sci. Imp., Univ. Tokio.

Kovalev, P. D., A. B. Rabinovich and G.V. Shevchenko. - 1991. Investigation of long waves in the tsunami frequency band on the southwestern shelf of Kamchatka. Nat. Haz., 4(2-3): 141-159.

Liu, P.L.-F., S. Monserrat and M. Marcos. - 2002. Analytical simulation of edge waves observed around the Balearic Islands. Geophys. Res. Let., 29, 17: 1847.

Marcos, M., S. Monserrat, R. Medina and C. Vidal. - 2003. Influence of the atmospheric wave velocity in the coastal amplification of meteotsunamis. In A. C. Yalciner, E.N. Pelinovsky, C.E. Synolakis and E. Okal (eds.), Submarine Landslides and Tsunamis, pp. 247-253. Kluwer Acad. Publ.

Marcos, M., S. Monserrat, R. Medina, A. Orfila and M. Olabarrieta. - 2009. External forcing of meteorological tsunamis at the coast of the Balearic Islands. Phys. Chem. Earth., 17-18: 938-947.

Marcos, M., P.L.-F. Liu and S. Monserrat. - 2004. Nonlinear resonant coupling between two adjacent bay. J. Geophys. Res., 109 (C05008).

Mei, C.C. - 1989. The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves. World Scientific. Singapore.

Mercer, D., J. Sheng, R. J. Greatbatch and J. Bobanovic. - 2002. Barotropic waves generated by storms moving rapidly over shallow water. J. Geophys. Res., 107(C10).

Monserrat, S. and A.J. Thorpe. - 1992. Gravity wave observations using an array of microbarographs in the Balearic Islands. Q. J. R. Meteorol. Soc., 118: 259-282.

Monserrat, S., A.B. Rabinovich and B. Casas. - 1998. On the reconstruction of the transfer function for atmospherically generated seiches. Geophys. Res. Let., 12: 2197-2200.

Nielsen, P., S. de Brye, D.P. Callaghan and P.A. Guard. - 2008. Transient dynamics of storm surges and other forced long waves. Coast. Eng. 55(6): 499-505.

Papadopoulos, G.A., E. Polymenakos, M. Tsimplis and G. Vlachakis.- 1992. An exceptional seawave observed in the Aegean: A geological or meteorological event? XVII EGS General Assembly, Edinburgh, C109.

Proudman, J. - 1929. The effects on the sea of changes in atmospheric pressure. Geophysical supplement to Mon. Not. R. Astron. Soc. 2,(4): 197-209

Rabinovich, A.B. and S. Monserrat. - 1996. Meteorological tsunamis near the Balearic and Kuril Islands: descriptive and statistical analysis. Nat. Haz. 13: 55-90.

Rabinovich, A.B. and S. Monserrat. - 1998. Generation of meteorological tsunamis (large amplitude seiches) near the Balearic and Kuril islands. Nat. Haz. 18: 27-55.

Rabinovich, A.B., I. Vilibic and S. Tinti. - 2009. Meteorological Tsunamis: Atmospherically Induced Destructive Ocean Waves in the Tsunami Frequency Band. Phys. Chem. Earth., 34, 17-18: 891-1032.

Sepic, J., I. Vilibic and D. Belusic. - 2009. The source of the 2007 meteotsunami (Adriatic Sea). J. Geophy. Res., 114, C03016.

Shillington, F.A. - 1984. Long period edge waves off Southern Africa. Cont. Shelf Res., 3: 343-357.

Song, Y. and D.B. Haidvogel. - 1994. A semi-implicit ocean circulation model using a generalized topography-following coordinate system. J. Comp. Phys., 115(1): 228-244.

Vilibic, I., S. Monserrat, A. B. Rabinovich and H. Mihanovic. - 2008. Numerical modelling of the destructive meteotsunami of 15 June, 2006 on the coast of the Balearic Islands. Pure Appl. Geophys., 165: 2169-2195.

Vilibic, I., J. Sepic, J. Ranguelov, N. Strelec-Mahovic and S. Tinti. - 2010. Possible atmospheric origin of the 7 May 2007 western Black Sea shelf tsunami event. J. Geophys. Res., 115, C07006.

Vennell, R.-2010. Resonance and trapping of topographic transient ocean waves generated by a moving atmospheric disturbance. J. Fluid Mechanics, 650: 427-442.

Copyright (c) 2011 Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC)

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

Contact us

Technical support